Roundup:Milan fashion week enhances functional aesthetic of today's man
Xinhua, June 21, 2016 Adjust font size:
A self-confident man dressed in functional, comfortable clothes was a protagonist of the new collections for the spring summer season 2017 presented at the Milan fashion week on June 17-21 in the Italian fashion capital.
The Diesel Black Gold creations, unveiled on Monday, had an utilitarian spirit tempered by the color palette, which, along with signature black, indigo and white, included pale blue, pink and khaki.
The brand's creative director Andreas Melbostad said he got inspired by the black and white images shot between 1950 and 1951 by American photographer Irving Penn who travelled across London, Paris and New York to len a variety of men dressed in their work clothes.
Denim took center stage in the lineup, rediscovering its roots linked to work apparel. Striped blue and white jean was crafted for a front pocket jacket and matched baggy pants, featuring straps and functional pockets, enhancing the utilitarian feel of a graphic cotton shirt.
Iconic hardware added a thought touch to long denim pants with a crushed effect. These were paired with a range of shirts, such as the new kimono style, crafted from leather or cotton, as well as the chef uniform shirt and the iconic-pocketed workwear versions.
Introducing a subtle sporty hint, nylon was used for relaxed trousers and short pants, a hybrid T-shirt, and quilted utility shirts and jackets.
The new tailoring included looks with cropped, fitted jackets paired with low-slug pants worn over Diesel Black Gold jersey briefs. Footwear included canvas sneakers, combat boots and utility sandals, also exalting the functional spirit of the collection.
The gentlemen of Versace was also a man of the world, or "a man of character and individual attitude," as the creative director Donatella Versace defined him, highlighting the new collection's "lightweight, layered, fluid and functional" style "for the way men live their lives today."
Summer coats brought a new ease, from ultra-light long parkas of near transparent nylon, or an open weave flowing trench. The Versace silk shirt was reborn as a zip-up blouson, with iconic prints over-dyed to create a deep and intense color palette for summer.
Tailoring was about functionality, whether it was the unstructured jersey suit jacket that kept its shape, or the tailored pants with elasticated waist and cuff. Leather blazers had a defiant attitude, while leather bikers and coats had been slashed, then embellished with small studs.
Silk knitwear was light and often tied round the waist, like the fine-knit sweater with a back of cupro, or a fine knit polo shirt. Tie prints appeared on long silk shirts, or a silk pyjama set, while the print also appeared on elegant single-breasted tailoring.
The new Versace Active athletic performance wear underpinned the collection, with technical cycling shorts and running leggings. "The combinations of super-lightweight technical materials and fluid forms with high-fashion design and materials were really innovative," Feliciana Venditti, an assistant license manager in the fashion sector, told Xinhua, commenting the Versace new collection presented on Monday.
"This collection conforms to a self-confident, ambitious man, a man who stands out in business," said Giuseppe Damato, a fashion project management consultant for leading fashion houses.
"There was a lot of black and blue, with an accent of violet. Materials included silk and cotton in fluid forms. Overall I found these clothes very wearable," he told Xinhua. "And do not forget fashionable shoes and sunglasses. Accessories are also very important when you dress in the morning," Damato also added.
Versace technical sneakers were super lightweight, while hiking sandals had webbing straps woven with the Greek key, worn with Versace socks. Versace's Empire bag was worn across the body, carried as a large weekender, or transformed into a backpack. A new watch, the sporty V-Race Diver, had the attitude of the global traveler. Endit