China Focus: Disney deal helps reanimate Qing Dynasty shoemaker

A Chinese shoemaker popular with Qing Dynasty courtiers is continuing to tread a path back to fashion through a deal with Disney to use the animator's characters.

The likes of Mickey Mouse will feature on a line of Neiliansheng shoes to be launched in time for the opening of the Shanghai Disney Resort in June.

"It will be a crossover collaboration between two venerable companies from the East and the West," said Cheng Xu, Neiliansheng's assistant general manager.

Founded in 1853, 70 years before the Walt Disney Company, Neiliansheng makes traditional cloth shoes to exacting standards. To this day, the soles of its most premium pairs are put together in 30 layers by hand, a process that takes two days.

Cloth shoes gradually lost popularity in China as leather loafers were introduced from the West, but the style is on the comeback with Neiliansheng reinventing itself as a trendy, retro brand.

Its Chinese New Year limited editions with designs based on the latest zodiac animal are very sought-after. The 30 pairs with goat prints it made in 2015 sold out within minutes of going on sale, at a price of 497 yuan (76 U.S. dollars).

Neilianshengs have been exhibited in Milan, in a show organized by Chinese luxury goods retailer Secoo, and they are sold in boutiques in Los Angeles. They were worn by medal presenters at the Beijing 2008 Olympic Games, and Neiliansheng produced limited editions for the Brazil World Cup.

"We have had more and more institutions and designers coming to us for partnerships," Cheng said.

Neiliansheng is also selling more and more shoes online, a channel it recognizes as more popular with young people. According to the company, over half its shoes sold online in 2015 were bought by people to wear themselves. In previous years, Internet buyers were mainly ordering Neilianshengs as gifts for their parents or older friends.

"The Internet has given us more room to innovate," added Cheng. "We sometime have designs that are too bold for our stores, so we can trial them online without the need for a major promotion."

Freelance branding consultant Gao Yidao said other traditional Chinese brands should follow Neiliansheng's example and adopt contemporary business practices. The brands that survive the test of time are those that are prepared to take risks and be creative, Gao said. Endi