WengJici Erqing and Ruheng Cirenduoji grew up in households where grandmothers had absolute authority. Raised by their mothers and their uncles, neither knew his father well.

This unique matrilineal family system followed by the Mosuo people for more than 2,000 years is what the two aspire to protect. But in real life, both chose to compromise their ancient customs to make their modern lives easier.

Erqing not only sees his wife and his two daughters almost every day but also takes them out occasionally. Duoji married his Mosuo girlfriend and acquired an official marriage certificate.

Almost 15 years after the previously secluded tribe residing in the outlying areas of southwestern China opened their habitats to tourists, the younger generation like Erqing and Duoji have begun to waver between history and modernity, struggling to hold fast to their identity and their rare matriarchal traditions.

With their wood-frame houses scattered around the 60-sq-km Lugu Lake separating Yunnan and Sichuan provinces, the Mosuo ethnic minority has a population of about 40,000. Unlike the majority of China's ethnic groups who follow a strong patrilineal tradition, they have preserved their ancient matriarchal system and the tradition of "walking marriage."

After puberty, a Mosuo girl is free to receive men. But they can only visit at night and must go to their own homes in the morning. Any children born from these relationships are raised by the mother's family. The father will raise his sisters' children.

If either member of such a couple tires of the relationship, they will move on to a new partner.

Fading custom

Although "walking marriage" (meaning to walk back and forth) remains strong in the Mosuo territory, those who follow the ancient tradition have been declining.

In Luoshui Village of the Ninglang Yi Autonomous County of Lijiang, Yunnan Province, only 60 percent of the people now participate in walking marriages, compared with 70 percent in 1996. Of the remaining 40 percent, half cohabit and half formally marry.

"Poverty is the main driving force. As young people migrated to cities for jobs, cohabitation and marriage cut their living costs. It's strange but true that in villages where people are richer, the tradition is often relatively better preserved," said Erqing.

Duoji admitted that it was difficult to maintain village traditions in town. "My wife now works in Lijiang and we plan to have a child. Without a marriage certificate, our relationship would be illegal there. It might also cause lots of hassle in our future child-raising," he said.

Living at an elevation of 3,000 meters, the Mosuo have historically lived off the land. But the influx of tourists has given them a chance to see what's going on in the outside world and created a welcome new source of income.

A popular business is tourism, especially running guesthouses. The Yunnan Provincial Tourism Bureau has compile statistics showing that the Lugu Lake area, the major habitat of the Mosuo, hosts hundreds of thousands of visitors each year.

Erqing and Duoji each own a guesthouse in Luoshui Village. They also co-run an exhibition on Mosuo culture. They each earn more than 100,000 yuan a year from their businesses.

"As people here get rich, tradition begins to clash with modern civilization. Lifestyles change. 'Walking marriage' still dominates, but other traditions are ignored," said Erqing.

"When we were kids, young people riding horses had to dismount and stand by to wait for senior citizens to walk by first. Now young people whiz past on bikes or in cars. They don't bother to stop," said the 38-year-old.

Another waning custom, Duoji said, was the fireplace get-together. "When I was small, people gathered around fireplaces for entertainment. Children had to rise to salute arriving elders, offer them seats and serve them food. These days you won't see that any more," Duoji said.

Like anything in the world, Mosuo culture evolves slowly but constantly. As tourists swarm in their habitats to see their exotic lifestyle, the Mosuo wonder how their matrilineal culture will survive.

True Mosuo

For Erqing and Duoji, inspiration came from their small exhibition room.

With 800 items on show, mostly old photos on the subsistence life of the Mosuo people and the articles they use in daily life and work, the gallery opened to the public in 2001. It cost them about 500,000 yuan but has proven very lucrative.

The two now plan to expand their gallery into China's first private Mosuo Culture Museum. The project, financed by loans and savings, will cost 900,000 yuan.

"I think the unique qualities of the Mosuo people may well enable the tribe to survive and prosper. But that should be based upon the integrity and authenticity of our culture," said Erqing. "That's why we want to build the museum to tell the world about the true Mosuo."

Over the years, the two noticed through visitors at their guesthouses that some tour guides had purposely distorted local custom to spice up their business.

"When talking about the Mosuo, the first thing in people's minds is always 'walking marriage'. Tourists seem to think that is what our culture is all about," said Duoji.

"Some mistook 'walking marriage' as type of promiscuity and a few even came here to seek a one-night stand," Erqing lamented.

"Our relationship is not like a game. It's based on love and not bound by laws, religion or money," he said. "As children are raised by a bigger family, the parents feel less stressed. Quarrels between husband and wife and rivalry between mothers-in-law and daughters-in-law are thus averted."

Erqing and his Axia, the Mosuo word for wife, for instance, knew each other since childhood. Although local custom allowed men to visit women after the man reached puberty, usually at age 13, Erqing didn't walk into her room until he was 26.

The visiting relationship is not casual. There are formal ceremonies, too. When a couple fall in love, the man needs to ask a match-maker to send gifts, including candy, to his sweetheart's home. In return, the young woman's mother will give the man linen trousers that her daughter has made and send the man's gift of candies to her neighbors.

"And we are forbidden to discuss sex and 'walking marriage' openly, especially in the company of our grandmother or siblings," said Duoji.

"Most of the Mosuo people fall in love only once or twice. Men would no longer want to walk back and forth if they had children. They would settle down," Erqing said.

With two daughters, one aged 11 and the other six, Erqing said that his Axia was the only one in his life. "We live apart, but we promised not to betray each other," he said.

Erqing sees his daughters every day.

"My Axia is illiterate. I give my daughters after-school tutoring. They are happy with it and often come to find me. Our 'walking marriage' has lasted for 12 years. I want it to last longer," he said.

(Xinhua News Agency May 27, 2009)